Friday, May 11, 2018

Adventures in the Most Religious City in the World

This morning I woke up and glanced at the henna stamp on the palm of my hand. It was a sign of just one of the many strange, but mostly memorable events that happened the night before.
After a day of mostly aimless strolls, I arrived at my friend’s apartment on Ruth Street. I watched as Rony hastily changed clothes, trying desperately to get ready before his folks arrived.
In just a few moments we were all hopping in a car en route to Jerusalem.
I hadn’t seen Rony’s parents for nearly 8 years. They were two of the kindest people I’d ever come across. Now here we were in Israel, nearly 6,000 miles from New York getting ready for their son’s wedding.
The five of us crowded into a Subaru 4 x 4 and made our way south for the pre-wedding ceremony. Rony’s fiancee, Ella, a Yemenite Jew insured us we wouldn’t be disappointed by the food and traditions that date back thousands of years.
“Nick, I can’t believe you are actually here!” Rony’s mom said.
“Yes. I’m here,” I assured her.
I caught up with Rony’s folks as he and Ella made frantic calls to friends and family confirming there whereabouts, and that they were in fact coming to Jerusalem as advertised.
We talked about travel and art as Rony’s father offered interesting tidbits of history.
“He’s my Google,” Rony’s mom joked.
Our ride to Jerusalem felt strangely familiar. I felt almost as if I’d returned home. I had only been to the Holy City once but felt as if I was visiting an old friend.
It wasn’t until later I appreciated the irony of feeling such peace in a place fraught with tension and complexity.

Before we entered the synagogue for the festivities Rony asked me to wear a yarmulke and to remove the crucifix around my neck. Neither turned out to be necessary, but I wanted to make my friend feel at ease.
I’m told getting married is a bit stressful.
Soon, the guests started to arrive. At first it felt like a light rain before giving way to a steady downpour. Each person beamed as they approached Rony, offering some congratulatory prose and a hug.
I spent much of my time speaking with Yuval, Rony’s brother, and his in-laws; a delightful elderly couple originally from Jerusalem who happened to have a son who lived in Pasadena. We nearly fell over when we discovered I’d lived just a few blocks from him.

Yuval’s father-in-law told me he and his wife had recently moved from Jerusalem because they felt more and more unsettled about being secular Jews in a community where it no longer felt okay to be so.

I also spoke with Ella’s cousin, a young man named Anthony who’d lived an extraordinarily interesting life, especially for someone so young. We traded stories about living in Shanghai.
His father approached with a full plate of food and listened attentively before offering some theories on business, the world economy, and history. He was a nice gentlemen but I couldn’t always tell whether he was talking to me or lecturing.
The ceremony itself is hard to describe. It was delivered in Hebrew, the garments worn entailed large golden coats, and a tall triangular shaped head piece replete with elaborate jewelry.
Even I took part in the action wearing a traditional Yemenite robe and dancing the night away wondering when, if ever, I’d experience such an event again.
There were also elaborate sweets, lots of delicious Kubaneh bread, fruit, vegetables, and did I mention bread?
Eventually the night came to a close as Ella, Rony, and their close friend Karen drove us back to Tel Aviv. Earlier in the evening, I wondered if Israelis had ever tried to make their own cars to which Rony responded, “Once, but it did not go well.”
I finally arrived back at good ole’ Pinsker Street. Karen dropped me off at about 1:30 am just in front of an argument between a young man and woman; a couple in or around love.
I don’t miss that, I thought to myself.
I thanked Karen for the ride and made my way inside the apartment. The lights were dim and the air conditioner in my room had been turned on. It was the only sign I wasn’t alone, something I’d started to doubt the past two days.
I laid down without bothering to change, exhausted at all I’d seen, heard, and learnedmost for the first time. After a few moments of trying to get comfortable I felt myself start to drift away.
I fell into a deep sleep.
My first in a while.
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