Showing posts with label travel writing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel writing. Show all posts

Sunday, May 27, 2018

Travel

There’s nothing like visiting a foreign country, but you don’t need your passport to explore. 

Each place, near or far, offers a chance to challenge the assumptions you have about the world.
There’s nothing quite as humbling as realizing you’ve been clinging to an idea, or worldview that hasn’t been stress tested and is just plain wrong.

Saturday, April 21, 2018

Musings in a Jordanian Cafe

I can’t sleep. I wonder how many times my mattress has played host to the insomniac tourist; too many to count probably. I just hope this bed has learned not to take it personally. 

“It’s not you it’s me,” I feel tempted to say.

This evening, I had a cup of tea at a place called the, Art Gallery Cafe on the corner of Al-Rainbow and Uthman Bin Affan Street. It was a cozy little spot that reminded me of a sidewalk café in Europe.

I overheard four-twenty something’s philosophize about travel, dating, and work. The most notable sound bites was one man’s claim that whales didn’t have faces. 

I'm still pondering that one.

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Friday, March 30, 2018

Adventures in a Town Called White Fish

I think I’m starting to get the hang of this Montana thing. Yesterday, before pushing off for Glacier National Park, my friend and I headed for South Higgins Avenue; a strip in downtown Missoula we’ve affectionately coined “hipster row.” Yes, there are hipsters here or at least aspiring ones.
But after ordering a green smoothie in the city’s sole juice bar sporting a scarf and prayer beads, it dawned on me I had no right to judge the gentlemen nibbling on avocado toast.
“I could do Missoula for a year,” I heard Tonya say as she scanned the hillside for hypothetical abodes.
“This would be like $12 back in L.A.,” she added, while holding up a mocha and bagel she managed to secure for under $6.
It was my turn to drive as I tried to remember the last time I’d navigated the world in an SUV. I nearly forgot how much I missed the view from above as we weaved between and around breathtaking mountainsides. Rounding each corner was like stumbling upon some lost Ansel Adams photograph as a sturdy wind reminded us 4WD or not, mother nature ran these parts.
When the two of us finally reached Glacier National Park we pretty much had the run of the place to ourselves. Packed snow and crisp cold air were not high selling points for most, but it made hiking through the woods profoundly peaceful, poetic even.
We spent most of the day pulling limbs from 3-foot ditches where the sun had gradually mined through the packed snow. When we weren’t laughing or bemoaning our incompetence, we relished the moments of solitude among company.
Montana feels like one of the few places where such a contradiction feels possible, if not a rite of passage.
A few hours later, we journeyed to a little town called, White Fish. You’d be hard-pressed to find it on a map or remember why you went, but it’s an adorable little ski town. Alberta license plates give local ones a run for their money when the hills are paved in white in this movie set of a town. The streets are lined with trendy restaurants and bars that make you wish walls could talk.
We ended the night staring at a “Do Not Serve” sign posted conspicuously behind the bar at a local watering hole called, The Palace. We traded theories on how one got banned without managing to escape with their first and last names a secret.
“And stay out! By the way, what was your full name again?”
I sat beside Tonya as she calmly sipped a glass of Bulleit Whiskey, while feigning interest in a college 3-point shooting contest playing on the TV high above.
A slow night in an occasionally lively town.
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Sunday, March 18, 2018

The Art of Kindness — Lessons in Hospitality from My Slovakian Brothers

When trying to find the best accommodations for your dollar, I’ve learned it helps to approach AirBnb the same way you might when going out for sushi. Each offer different choices depending on your preferences.
A shared room is like ordering two small pieces of salmon nigiri.
A single room is your standard California roll.
And renting the entire home is like asking for the Love Boat — a smorgasbord of sushi rolls, teriyaki, and tempura.
And like sushi, the cost of booking a room can vary depending on what city you’re in and what you prefer. If the prices are too steep it may be best to look elsewhere.
On the other hand, if the rates are too cheap you should be leery. The apartment for $25 a night whose only redeeming feature is the WiFi is like the unsold fish from last Thursday.
Run for the hills my friend and don’t look back.
As I scanned through images in search of my next temporary abode, I came across some questionable postings that made me feel more like I was browsing Craigslist:
Taste the City
“What does that even mean?” I heard myself say out loud.
Another room was being advertised for $19 a night and the only pictures available were of a bed and some nondescript storefront.
Luckily, I’ve developed a keen eye for picking reasonably priced and cozy dwellings, a skill not to be overlooked.
But my time here in Slovakia is not up. Like Slovenia, it is a small country and one gets the sense often underestimated. But one would be mistaken if they thought it was a place to be missed.
Bratislava sits above the Danube, a river I am now convinced is stalking me. Bratislava Castle, Michael’s Gate, and the Slovak National Theatre are certainly worth your time. I spent part of my day marveling at St. Martin’s Cathedral, built in the 15th century situated near the historical city center.
And to date, the three people I know from this country are arguably the most affable and kind-hearted you will ever meet. I half wonder if they’re related.
The first, was a gentlemen I met nearly twenty years ago — a sobering reminder of the delicacy and pace of time. My friend Bill spent many college summers working at a swim club in the Oakland Hills. His co-worker, who worked as a trainer, was a 30-something Slovakian transplant named Milan. How he ended up in Oakland of all places still puzzles me.
What I recall most about Milan was his tireless work ethic, generosity, and the party he threw one August evening where he pleaded with Bill to break all the windows in his house. Luckily, Bill declined and I’m assuming Milan retained his security deposit. That was a strange night and also the last time I saw my Slovakian friend.
Next, there was Jozef, a 40-something father originally from Bratislava, who seemed to have less of a propensity for destroying things. Yesterday, when I arrived, he greeted me warmly and led me into my host’s apartment who happened to be a childhood friend of his.
After he showed me around the space we spoke for about 15 minutes in the kitchen, a pattern that seems to have developed on several of my journeys. He taught me a few words in Slovak that I nearly forgot before he walked out the large off-white door. He also told me a bit of Slovakia’s unique history and its people. Strangely, what interested me most was the dilapidated building directly across the street.
“That was a hospital,” he said. “Actually, I was born there.”
Having just visited the hospital I was born in two summers before in Hong Kong, I was now intrigued.
“How long has it been abandoned?” I asked.
“About 7 years,” he told me.
Only 7 years?! I thought.
It looked like it was built before the Acropolis.
We spoke for a bit longer, trading a few jokes along the way, something I took special delight in since humor is so often lost in translation, or a matter of temperament.
Soon after Jozef made his way home.
Last but not least, there was Jergus, a twenty-something photographer working at a makeshift teashop just beyond St. Martin’s Cathedral. We spoke for an hour and half over jasmine green tea. Each time I finished a carafe he would re-steep the tea leaves and pour me another cup. Part of me started to think he didn’t want me to leave.
Whatever. I ain’t driving, I thought.
I discovered Jergus had lived in Vietnam as a small boy because his father worked in Hanoi. He seemed to have a fleeting recollection of the experience, but had clearly cultivated a fascination with Southeast Asia.
We also covered politics and the arts then began trading insights and observations we’d picked up in our lives. After a while we began to sound like two fortune cookies.
Eventually, my bladder would have no more of it. I thanked Jergus for the tea and conversation. I made my through Old Town on the way to my apartment.
As beautiful as this place is, it’s defining feature, it’s gem, are unquestionably the people. Milan, Jozef, and Jergus — Slovakian brothers from another mother.
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Tuesday, February 20, 2018

How to Make Friends in Romania

One afternoon, I arrived at a drizzly Henri Coanda International Airport in Bucharest. My friend Anka spotted me as I made my way through customs into the arrivals hall. It’d been exactly a year since I’d last seen my Romanian friend.
Just a summer before we were in high spirits, sharing our thoughts on the future at a sidewalk restaurant somewhere on Columbus Ave.
Her brother Adrian was waiting for the two of us in a blue Jaguar in the parking lot. I instantly felt guilty he’d schlepped across town to pick up someone he didn’t even know.
I liked the man instantly and saw a similar temperament between the two. Both had sharp wits and a good sense of humor, Adrian’s undoubtedly a bit more of the self-deprecating variety.
I asked questions about buildings as we zipped through downtown Bucharest. I wanted to know their names, what historical significance they had, but mostly what made the people in this part of the world tick.
Both were patient as I sat in the backseat like a child pestering his parents on a long afternoon drive to grandma’s house.

After Adrian let us off at Anka’s apartment, I had a few minutes to drop my bags and freshen up before being whisked away to the Teatrul Odeon, one of Romania’s best known arts venues, and the reason Anka was back in the city where she spent her youth.

Anka, an absurdly talented costume and set designer, had her services called upon by Andrei Serban, one of Romania’s finest exports and a very famous theater director throughout the world.

He also happened to be my former teacher.

It had been 8 years since I’d seen him as I entered the 105 year-old building and saw his tall frame sporting a green button down shirt.

“Oh my God,” he said. “How are you?”

We exchanged pleasantries for a few moments and I complimented him on his appearance telling him he looked exactly the same, which he did as far as I could tell.

Even in his 70s, he was absolutely tireless in his approach to the work and commitment to creating theater that said something about the world, or at least held a mirror up to it.

You can imagine the influence he had on a wide-eyed and very earnest 25-year old actor back in New York.

I had questions.

SO many questions.

Only back then I wasn’t as comfortable as I am today not having the answers.

“You’re a pain in the ass,” he once told me.

Anka and I made our way into a beautiful but airless theater. I had been warned en route to the stage that because the theater was considered a shrine of sorts, the committee had refused to add air conditioning.

After a few moments in our balcony chairs I saw no honor in our martyrdom despite how good the play was. Even the Barrymore and Belasco theaters have AC, I thought.

The play was terrific. It was George Bernard Shaw’s Arms and the Man, or in Romanian, Soldatul De Ciocolata.

Of course, I didn’t understand a word but admired the commitment of the performers as well the communal experience it provided for the audience. At times I felt more like I was at a small Baptist church than a play.

I smiled as I remembered many of Andrei’s signature moves as a director. Whatever world he created on stage it was always bold.

Afterwards, Anka and I took a little stroll and grabbed a bite to eat at Caru cu bere, a restaurant in a beautiful gothic revival building that opened in 1879 just down the street.

We talked about the play and how surreal it was that I was actually in Romania, her country, a place we’d talked about meeting for years.

The atmosphere and company also compelled me to thank Anka for her friendship.

“I just wanted to say how grateful I am that we’ve become such close friends,” I said. “When we started hanging out about 8 years ago you were there for me at a very difficult time in my life. Thank you for that.”

She paused before sharing a shorter but similar sentiment.

“I don’t make friends easily,” she said in her heavy accent. “But you’re like a brother to me.”

I smiled at my all around good fortune. Here I was in this strange but beautiful city having dinner with my big sister.

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